Dress Codes (October 2, 2009 – January 17, 2010), the International Center of Photography’s third triennial of photography and video, was a fantastic exhibition exploring fashion, in the broadest sense. It exhibited the works of 34 photographers from around the world; many of them live and work in New York. Here are a few of my favorite pieces.
- German artist Thorsten Brinkmann photographed himself in strange costumes with his head always covered by an object: a flower pot, a leather bag, a tennis racket cover. There’s something about a masked face that’s unsettling—bank robbers with balaclavas or stockings on their heads—but Brinkmann’s photographs have an eeriness that’s alluring.
- In his photographic series Shanghai Living, Hu Yang, who was born in Shanghai in 1951, captured ordinary Shanghainese, from unemployed people to professors, in their own homes. He also asked them about their current living situation and greatest ambition and fear. The photographs offer such insight into their lives. There’s an artist who’s content with her simple life; she has no goals and dreams. There’s a vendor who’s doing it tough—his family lives on battercakes, pickles, and water, and when the children crave meat, he gives them an egg. There’s a university professor who’s financially pressured but enjoys his life—jade vessels, seeing friends, painting, writing, and calligraphy. And a couple who have tried to save money on wallpaper by covering their apartment’s walls with newspaper.
- Milagros de la Torre’s photographs of designer bullet-proof clothing hanging on coat hangers—jackets, as well as loose, white shirts—are intriguing. The clothing, which looks deceptively “normal,” is sold in luxury boutique stores in Bogotá and Mexico City, and worn by politicians (including Barack Obama, reportedly, on Inauguration Day), and the rich and famous.
- I loved David Rosetzky’s video portrait of Cate Blanchett, which he created for the National Portrait Gallery in Canberra. In this somewhat hypnotic video, filmed in the Sydney Theatre Company’s lofty rehearsal space, Cate, in cargo pants, a tank top, and no makeup, plays with her hands, does a pokey, understated dance, moves a chair around, puts a loose shirt on and takes it off, and talks (“who I am, it’s constantly shifting,” “people are wildly inconsistent and contradictory,” “you have to know that something can be interpreted in a million ways”).
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From the series Shanghai Living (2005) by Hu Yang








